Saturday, February 3, 2024

Day 22 Friday, February 2 Rest Day in Musanze

by Henry
After breakfast today, some of the group went on a hike to a local volcano with a crater lake, and another group went to see the mountain gorillas. One person went birding.


A rare bifid banana.

We dropped off our laundry with the washer women at the cycling center. We are told that this is the only washing machine we will have easy access to on our entire Africa route.

We have an appointment to see the gorillas in the national park tomorrow, so we took an 8.5 km bike ride up the hill to a center sponsored by Ellen DeGeneres to support the mountain gorillas. This piggybacked on all the pioneering work by Dian Fossey, who was brutally murdered in 1985. The visitor center was very informative. Two other buildings were only open to staff; one for research, the other for education.






A screenshot of Ellen's welcome video.


Supposedly, the last time my clothes will be machine-washed until May.

Like clockwork, there was a torrential downpour at 2 PM, which lasted for about 45 minutes.


Cycling center dogs. They are well fed. In comparison to Egypt, there are very few strays, and I have only seen one cat. We have been told that immediately after the genocide, dogs were routinely shot because they were feeding on the human corpses. However, that was 30 years and many dog generations ago. I have a suspicion that any Rwandan stray dogs and cats that aren't adopted are euthanized.

We had a relaxing afternoon, feasted on an excellent dinner prepared by the bike center staff, then retired early to be ready for our morning departure to see the gorillas.

Friday, February 2, 2024

DAY 21 Thursday, February 1 Gisenyi to Musanze (Part 3 of 3)

by Henry

More photos collectively shared by the riding group. This post focuses on the Rwandan people. 

As I did not take any of these pictures, I can’t comment on the circumstances, and will let them mostly speak for themselves.





The younger children are especially gregarious and uninhibited.







We see women, more than men, effortlessly balancing anything and everything on top of their heads. At road worksites, both men and women carry heavy rocks and bricks on their heads. Many people walk their goats and cows like dogs, to find better grazing.









Power tools are not really a thing here. This is the longest one man handsaw I’ve ever seen.






When riding each day, there are easily 1000 images or videos I could take, but that does not lend itself to efficient riding.

Priscilla says I’ve exceeded my limit, so I have to stop here.

DAY 21 Thursday, February 1 Gisenyi to Musanze (Part 2 of 3)

by Henry

A short photo essay of all the crazy things Rwandans carry on their heads or bikes. The shoulders of the hilly country roads between villages are filled with people walking. Young men are pushing tremendous loads up very steep grades. There is no obesity here.

Most of the pictures were shared by the other riders. Truly, it's impossible to capture all the amazing images we see every day. 


Lumber. Note the shoulder of the road is manually swept clean with straw brooms, and there is no litter at all.  Where there is grass, women are weeding so that there is a one foot buffer between the grass and the shoulder.




Big sack of corn. Actually, big bags of potatoes are more commonly seen. 


Boulders at a road side work site. 


Women at the same work site. The ones with 5 gallon water jugs cut in half are carrying mortar.


This is a small batch of bananas, but it was a good quality image.


Grinding up the hill with a bigger load of bananas.


A soft drink and beer cooler being delivered on a bike. There is a glass front door to the cooler!


At first glance it seems dead, but then you notice that its eyes are open and it seems quite unhappy to be trussed so.

Day 21 Thursday, February 1 Gisenyi to Musanze (Part 1 of 3)

by Henry

Our destination today is Musanze, just outside Volcanoes National Park, famous for its gorillas.

Distance will be 70 km. Total elevation gain 1300 m, high temperature 22° C, no winds to speak of. We were cautioned the road would be busy all the way as many villages are not far apart along the road.



Every morning before breakfast, we load up our daily bags into the back of the truck. Hard to see, but there are two handwashing spigots with soap dispensers mounted on the back of the truck. The staff is adamant that we wash our hands at every meal before we touch any utensils or food.



Waterfall, which won't dry up anytime soon with the all the rain.



Rwanda's version of Lime bikes. The vendor was sitting right next to the bikes, and he told me the price was $.80 per hour.



I spotted the "Washington Bar" as we rode into Musanze.



Our destination today was the Africa Rising Cycling Center, which houses the Rwandan national biking team. For those who did not want to camp, a limited number of upgrades to a shared dorm room for 5 people were available. Like clockwork, after we set up our tents, there was a torrential downpour.



The building to the left was off-limits to us, as that was reserved for the cycling teams. There are currently 10 cycling teams here training for the upcoming https://tourdurwanda.rw/

The tent to the right was set up for us as a bar to get cokes and beer, and where our meals would be served.



Very high-quality jerseys and rain jackets were available for purchase.



We were graciously allowed access to this drinking water filtration system.



We enjoyed a nice convivial dinner under the tent that was set up for us.

Tomorrow and the next day, we have two separate groups traveling to see the gorillas in the national park. Other tourist activities are also available, and we will sort that out collectively.

Thursday, February 1, 2024

Day 21 Feb 1, 2024 Gisenyi to Musanze Garmin and Relive links

Jeff’s Relive


Some portraits from the road taken by a fellow cyclist.









Day 20 Wednesday, January 31 Kibuye to Gisenyi

by Henry

92 km, over 2200 m ascent, temperature 24° C. Sunny in the morning, but cloudy in the afternoon. We had a torrential rainstorm in the late afternoon after setting up camp, with the corresponding drop in temperature. This seems to be the pattern for the rainy season here. Since arriving in Rwanda, we've had very little wind. The air has been generally still and close.


A pile of rocks left by a dump truck. I saw only one piece of heavy equipment (bulldozer) all day. It appears that all of the retaining walls, drainage ditches, and other infrastructure necessary to support a roadway are built with hand tools and old-fashioned manual labor. I saw multiple road crews working.


Village with colorful rooftops, and Lake Kivu in the distance.


Rwanda's hills.


Waterfall.


Outdoor clothing market. This was adjacent to other vendors selling fruit and vegetables, as well as chickens.


Our lunch area was roped off with a string. The locals and kids respect this boundary. We were surrounded on three sides by gapers.


Towards the end of the ride today, we came upon massive tea fields, all part of a co-op. The farming is done by hand. There are no animals or tractors helping.


Our roads were very hilly today, and at times steep. This doesn't stop locals from hauling unwieldy objects by foot or bike. This is a stack of 10 mattresses.


Our campsite tonight is at La Bella Lodge, on the north end of Lake Kivu, a stone's throw from the Democratic Republic of the Congo (formerly Zaire).

As promised, our road all day was excellent quality tarmac (only Americans use the term "asphalt").