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| Camping near this Heineken Brewery |
Wednesday, January 31, 2024
Day 20 Wednesday January 31 Kibuye to Gisenyi Garmin and Relive Links
Jeff's Relive
Day 19 Tuesday, January 30 Rest Day in Kibuye
by Henry
There was the steady pitter patter of rain on our tents overnight, but we were all able to stay dry in our tents.
After breakfast, we decided to take a 20 km bike loop to a couple nearby villages.
Everyone's natural impression was that this is the Rwandan version of Neuschwanstein Castle.
A collection of fishing boats and fishermen.
Genocide memorials are scattered throughout the country. This memorial is located right next door to a soccer field where 15,000 Rwandans were brutally killed.
At this Catholic Church, a kilometer down the road, about 11,600 Rwandans were killed here during the genocide. Hard to see, but under the white cross, it says "Never Again".
The inside of the church is simple, but the altar is very colorful.
There are lots of banana plantations. We saw them in Egypt, and also here.
Locals are able to balance amazing loads on their bicycles. These are cartons of eggs.
For heavy and bulky loads, the Rwandans are adept at pushing their bikes up any steep hill.
We stopped in the village for a $2 lunch buffet at a restaurant.
There was the steady pitter patter of rain on our tents overnight, but we were all able to stay dry in our tents.
After breakfast, we decided to take a 20 km bike loop to a couple nearby villages.
Everyone's natural impression was that this is the Rwandan version of Neuschwanstein Castle.
A collection of fishing boats and fishermen.
Genocide memorials are scattered throughout the country. This memorial is located right next door to a soccer field where 15,000 Rwandans were brutally killed.
At this Catholic Church, a kilometer down the road, about 11,600 Rwandans were killed here during the genocide. Hard to see, but under the white cross, it says "Never Again".
The inside of the church is simple, but the altar is very colorful.
There are lots of banana plantations. We saw them in Egypt, and also here.
Locals are able to balance amazing loads on their bicycles. These are cartons of eggs.
For heavy and bulky loads, the Rwandans are adept at pushing their bikes up any steep hill.
We stopped in the village for a $2 lunch buffet at a restaurant.
We returned to our campsite, and cleaned mud off our bikes. There were some muddy unpaved stretches on our ride today. We will resume biking tomorrow. On our tour, there are six days where we climb over 2000 m. Tomorrow is the first such day. Between the heat, humidity, elevation (we are currently at 1460 m), and total ascent, all bikers will be challenged. At least for tomorrow the road is paved all the way.
Tuesday, January 30, 2024
Day 18 Monday, January 29 Rest Day in Kibuye
by Henry
In Rwanda, we are slightly south of the equator. High temperature might only be 24° C, but it feels much warmer because of the humidity level.
A view of the Livalana Hotel, looking uphill from our campsite. We have been informed that TDA is done supplying hotel rooms for us until we reach Cape Town on May 4. Thus, in theory, we are slated to camp every night until then. However, whenever we are camping at or near a hotel, the chance of getting a room upgrade may be available. It’s a little bit early in the tour, but almost certainly all of us will opt for a real bed intermittently as we progress through Africa. I also don’t see how it would be practical to camp in the middle of a big city like Nairobi.
Traditional net fishing boats on the lake at 6 AM. Three boats are linked together, and they work in tandem to cast the net as wide as possible.
After breakfast, we decided to take a boat tour of Lake Kivu.
There was enough interest that we filled three of these boats.
Calm waters, and there are many islands on the lake. There are cows that swim from island to island on this lake.
Our first destination was Napoleon Island, named because it is shaped like his bicorne hat. We would be hiking to the peak for a view.
On our ascent to the peak of Napoleon Island.
We encountered many fat millipedes feasting on juicy guava.
Marker at the top of Napoleon Island. Expansive 360° view, only limited by the atmospheric haze.
In the distance, we could see Teddy Bear Island, named for obvious reasons.
Descent from the peak.
We were then ferried to Monkey Island, where there is a colony of 14 velvet monkeys. The population remains stable because they are all from one family; in this species, brothers and sisters do not mate. Our guide is holding a banana to attract a monkey to the boat.
It worked.
Cruising further, we encountered the only houseboat on the lake. Our guide reported that a cabin onboard is $700 per night.
The third island we landed on was Peace Island, which we circumnavigated with a quick short hike.
Our boat guide explained that Rwandan men do not get married until they are able to buy a house. He thinks he will have to work about two more years before he can afford one.
After returning to shore, we had a late lunch at the hotel restaurant. We swam in the cool waters of the lake and did some laundry.
Dinner at 6 PM. None of us have to be called twice.
Day 18 Monday January 29 More on the boat tour: Methane extraction
by Tim
On a boat tour today on Lake Kivu in Rwanda we talked about the build up of methane in the lake from volcanic activity below the lake. Rwanda has worked with a US company to extract methane from the water to generate much of their electricity.
Swimming herds of cows are also a thing here. They swim from island to island for forage. The cowhand follows them by boat for milking. I helpfully noted that the cows replenish the methane.
One can apparently swim with the cows
Monday, January 29, 2024
Impressions on Egypt and Rwanda
by Tim
The people of Egypt are pressed into a very small portion of the land in large cities and arable land along the Nile. The government has attempted to spread the load on the land by building freeways and settlements in the desert but they struggle to populate them. Our riding was mostly easy and safe following the shoulders of these wide underused freeways. The beauty of these deserts and mountains eased the passage on the long straight stretches and the minimal traffic was courteous, particularly the truckers.
The antiquities of Egypt were not to be missed. My particular favorite activities were a balloon ride over Luxor, a felucca ride in Aswan, the Alexandria library, and wandering the streets and markets of Aswan.
The transition to Rwanda moved us from flat desert to terraced green mountains and a feeling of the citizens mostly rowing in the same direction:
•Crosswalks and sidewalks are better designed and more thoughtfully kept up than in Spokane.
•Reputed to be the cleanest country in Africa, it is hard to find a stray bottle or bag even on the banks of a lowland stream. Monthly holidays require no driving before noon as citizens organize neighborhood cleaning. Those in need of government assistance are given areas to keep clean in exchange for that assistance.
• Old cars and buildings are repaired and used as long as possible but torn down and salvaged when their useful life has ended.
•The people we pass on the roads, mostly walking or cycling, dress in bright clothing and appear healthy, happy, and with purpose.
Rwanda has had remarkable recovery and healing in the less than 30 years since the genocide of the 1990s.
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| Green farmland |
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| Kigali by night |
Day 17 Sunday, January 28 Kigali to Kibuye
by Henry
Today's ride is the first in the section called "Jewel of Africa". This section will take us through Rwanda, Uganda, and most of Kenya. Rwanda's nickname is aptly "land of a thousand hills", and we were certainly going to experience that firsthand today. High temperature 26° C, very little wind, 85 km, 1610 m total ascent. There is a 23 km irregular, unpaved segment with treacherous potholes on the main ascent. Our tour director actively encouraged those who don't feel they can ride the whole day to either take the truck in the morning or the afternoon.
This is one of two custom-built support trucks for our tour. They are also two additional SUVs tagging along. All the vehicles have ability to haul bicycles. There is a lot of space inside these trucks for bicycles, baggage, and cooking supplies also.
The drop off point where we began our ride today.
Very green rolling hillsides, with red dirt.
Today was Sunday, and we rode by women who were dressed in very bright colors. We could hear cheerful hymns emanating from the churches. Seventh Day Adventist Churches have a strong presence here.
Rwandans almost universally have single gear bikes. While carrying heavy loads, they can power up hills faster than most of us with derailleurs. As we crept up the hills, kids often ran alongside our bikes for a surprising distance. Kinyarwanda is the main national language. In Kigali, English was more commonly spoken and understood. In the villages, not so much.
The kids would greet us with something in their local language. When we heard English, it was usually "money, money, money", or "give me da money".
It was humid and hazy, and the temperature was rapidly increasing during our long ascent. I got a rear flat tire from a moderate-sized glass shard about 1/4 of the way up. My friend with the broken finger and his wife stopped to help.
Very near the top, I came upon one of the riders who was suffering from heat exhaustion by the roadside. She took some electrolyte powder I was carrying and after about 20 minutes, she was feeling better. During this time, we were surrounded by about 20 curious young onlookers, who did not have the same concept of personal space that we do. We had only about 1 km left in the long ascent, and she was able to successfully complete the last bit of the climb. 5 km of downhill later, we were at the lunch stop. She definitely felt better after lunch, but the medics recommended that she hitch an afternoon ride on the support vehicle into camp.
We arrived late to lunch, but the earlier riders shared the 3 photos below of curious onlookers who had gathered on the hillside as lunch was being set up. We are an endless source of fascination, and one of the TDA staff told me it's basically the same all the way through Africa.
The trees look like something Dr. Seuss might draw.
If you stop pedaling, it literally only takes a few seconds for a crowd to gather.
There was heavy rain for about 15 minutes in the afternoon during the long descent.
First view of Lake Kivu, our destination for today. This is a very large lake, and only a small arm is shown. The border between the Democratic Republic of Congo and Rwanda goes right through the middle of the lake.
Campsite on the shore of Lake Kivu.
We now enter 2 rest days, and a local guide will come in the morning to review optional activities for this region.
Today's ride is the first in the section called "Jewel of Africa". This section will take us through Rwanda, Uganda, and most of Kenya. Rwanda's nickname is aptly "land of a thousand hills", and we were certainly going to experience that firsthand today. High temperature 26° C, very little wind, 85 km, 1610 m total ascent. There is a 23 km irregular, unpaved segment with treacherous potholes on the main ascent. Our tour director actively encouraged those who don't feel they can ride the whole day to either take the truck in the morning or the afternoon.
This is one of two custom-built support trucks for our tour. They are also two additional SUVs tagging along. All the vehicles have ability to haul bicycles. There is a lot of space inside these trucks for bicycles, baggage, and cooking supplies also.
The drop off point where we began our ride today.
Very green rolling hillsides, with red dirt.
Today was Sunday, and we rode by women who were dressed in very bright colors. We could hear cheerful hymns emanating from the churches. Seventh Day Adventist Churches have a strong presence here.
Rwandans almost universally have single gear bikes. While carrying heavy loads, they can power up hills faster than most of us with derailleurs. As we crept up the hills, kids often ran alongside our bikes for a surprising distance. Kinyarwanda is the main national language. In Kigali, English was more commonly spoken and understood. In the villages, not so much.
The kids would greet us with something in their local language. When we heard English, it was usually "money, money, money", or "give me da money".
It was humid and hazy, and the temperature was rapidly increasing during our long ascent. I got a rear flat tire from a moderate-sized glass shard about 1/4 of the way up. My friend with the broken finger and his wife stopped to help.
Very near the top, I came upon one of the riders who was suffering from heat exhaustion by the roadside. She took some electrolyte powder I was carrying and after about 20 minutes, she was feeling better. During this time, we were surrounded by about 20 curious young onlookers, who did not have the same concept of personal space that we do. We had only about 1 km left in the long ascent, and she was able to successfully complete the last bit of the climb. 5 km of downhill later, we were at the lunch stop. She definitely felt better after lunch, but the medics recommended that she hitch an afternoon ride on the support vehicle into camp.
We arrived late to lunch, but the earlier riders shared the 3 photos below of curious onlookers who had gathered on the hillside as lunch was being set up. We are an endless source of fascination, and one of the TDA staff told me it's basically the same all the way through Africa.
The trees look like something Dr. Seuss might draw.
If you stop pedaling, it literally only takes a few seconds for a crowd to gather.
There was heavy rain for about 15 minutes in the afternoon during the long descent.
First view of Lake Kivu, our destination for today. This is a very large lake, and only a small arm is shown. The border between the Democratic Republic of Congo and Rwanda goes right through the middle of the lake.
Campsite on the shore of Lake Kivu.
We now enter 2 rest days, and a local guide will come in the morning to review optional activities for this region.
Sunday, January 28, 2024
Day 17 Sunday January 28 Kigali to Kibuye
Tim's Garmin
Jeff's Relive
https://www.relive.cc/view/v36AGxGxpZv
Camping at Kibuye
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| With friendly guard at a view point on the road |
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| Camping by the lake |
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| Typical whiteboard schedule |
Day 16 Saturday, January 27 Rest Day in Kigali
by Henry
We had six new segmental riders, and some additional TDA staff, join us in Kigali. Some are going all the way to Cape Town, but others are doing a shorter segment. So we've had some new people join our little traveling community.
Gorillas are their national treasure, and varying depictions of them are seen everywhere.
Views of completely empty Kigali streets on Saturday morning. We happened to be there on the fourth Saturday, which is Umuganda, a national holiday every month. From 8 to 11 AM, there is mandatory community service for everyone aged 18 to 65. Everyone honors this commitment. Service can be in the form of street cleanup, homebuilding for the vulnerable, or any other community improvement project. A local told me that neighborhoods organize themselves into groups of 10 households. Each group then carefully plans their monthly project. Kigali has won the award as Africa's cleanest city. We saw a few vehicles appear after 11, but traffic was completely back to normal by 1 PM. It is really amazing that the whole country can row together in the same direction in this way.
Similarly, Kagali has "Car Free Days" between 7 and 10 AM on the first and third Sundays of each month. Certain major roads are blocked off to allow for safer walking, running, bicycling.
After breakfast, we went on a self-guided Rwandan genocide historical walk. Our first stop was the Belgian Peacekeeper Memorial, where 10 Belgians were massacred right at the beginning of the genocide on April 7, 1994. There are huge bullet holes in the wall.
Hotel des Milles Collines (Hotel of the Thousand Hills) where 1,268 took refuge during the genocide. This event was made famous by the movie " Hotel Rwanda".
Sainte-Famille Catholic Church, where thousands of Tutsis and Hutus tried to take refuge. However, many ended up being raped, tortured, or killed here, with the priest being complicit.
The Rwandan Genocide Memorial proved to very sobering; no surprise. An estimated 1 million Rwandans were killed. There was an auxiliary exhibit on other genocides through history. Vicious cruelty is apparently an unchanging human trait.
Good use for old tires.
From the Genocide Museum, we took an 80 cent moto-taxi ride back to the hotel. These yellow and red-helmeted motorcycle taxi drivers swarm the city and are incredibly efficient at getting from point A to point B. Rwanda's helmet law is strictly enforced, and when there is no passenger, the driver simply carries the extra helmet on his arm.
We had a 5 PM rider meeting at the hotel, after which our bikes and permanent bags were loaded onto the truck.
Jeff had made an appointment with Sam Joseph's good friend, Emmanuel Mainevent, an extremely talented multimedia artist with worldwide clients. We were picked up by his driver at 6 PM, and whisked away to his art gallery/restaurant, which used to be the former Belgian Embassy in Kigali. Many famous people have visited the gallery, including Prince Charles in 2022 prior to his coronation as King Charles. U2's Bono has also been here, which is not surprising with his activism against AIDS in Africa. All of the displayed artwork was very impressive.
Amethyst rocks in a metal cage.
Recycled computer motherboards and other hardware components.
A larger project, again with recycled computer innards.
Hard to see, but each light is in a basketball hoop/net as Emmanuel is an NBA basketball fan. The embassy property is on a hillside with an all encompassing view of Kigali.
Dinner was extravagant and delicious, all courtesy of Emmanuel. Dessert for me was watermelon carpaccio with mango sorbet.
It was a delightful and memorable end to our short stay in Kigali. We have an early wake up tomorrow with a bus ride out of Kigali by 6 AM (to beat the heat). We haven't ridden now for six days, so all of us are looking forward to getting back in the saddle, even though it is going to be a challenging ride with significant elevation gain, and a rough unpaved stretch of road.
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By Henry Because we were sleeping at elevation, everyone woke up from a cold night. The riders clamored for their coffee immediately upon aw...
